The Complete Guide to Pin Stitches for Cross Stitch
- Jacquie
- Mar 23
- 4 min read
Pin stitches are one of those techniques that feel a little mysterious at first, but once you learn them, they quickly become a super useful tool in your cross stitch toolbox. Whether you're starting a new thread, ending one securely, or dealing with an isolated single stitch, pin stitches offer clean, secure, and sometimes invisible results.
In this post I'm breaking down every type of pin stitch I use, including how they work on Aida, linen, and evenweave.
What is a Pin Stitch?
A pin stitch is a method used to start or end a thread on your cross stitch without knots. Instead of anchoring your thread under existing stitches, the thread is secured by piercing or working within the fabric structure itself.
Pin stitches are especially useful when:
You can't use a loop start
You have isolated stitches with no nearby coverage
You want an ultra-secure, invisible start or finish
Different fabrics and stitch counts require slightly different approaches, so we'll tackle this guide by fabric type.
Pin Stitches on Aida (Stitching Over 1)
When stitching on Aida, pin stitches are incredibly secure and easy to place. Aida has a clear basketweave structure made up of grouped vertical and horizontal threads, which makes it ideal for pin stitches worked directly into the weave of the fabric.
If you can't use a standard loop start (my favorite way to start threads) a pin stitch - especially a diagonal one - is usually my next choice.
Understanding the Aida Weave
If you look closely at Aida fabric, you'll see distinct groups of four threads forming each square. This structure allows your needle to slip between threads, rather then splitting fibers, which makes pinstitches both secure and fabric friendly.
Vertical and Horizontal Pin Stitches on Aida
Vertical and horizontal pin stitches are worked directly into the weave of the fabric. These can be used both to start and end threads.
Why I love them:
They disappear completely when placed correctly
They're extremely secure
They can be hidden under existing or future stitches
Once covered, it's nearly impossible to tell they're there which is exactly what you want!
Diagonal Pin Stitches on Aida (My Favorite)
The diagonal pin stitch is hands down my most used type of pin stitch.
What makes it special is that you're essentially creating the bottom leg of a cross stitch while securing the thread at the same time. Because of this, it's fast, clean, and incredibly strong.
I use diagonal pin stitches constantly for starting threads. While they can technically also be used to end threads, it's not my most preferred method, but I do really love them as a starting technique.
How to Handle Single, Isolated Stitches
We’ve all been there: one lonely stitch surrounded by empty fabric.
In situations like this, I try to avoid carrying threads across open areas, since those threads can show through the fabric during finishing. Instead, I use a combination of a loop start and a hidden pin stitch to secure the thread cleanly.
This is one of those moments where pin stitches really shine as they allow you to stitch securely without compromising the back of your work.
Pin Stitches on Linen and Evenweave
Linen and evenweave behave a little differently then Aida, especially depending on whether you're stitching over 2 or over1.
Stitching Over 2 on Linen and Evenweave
When stitching over 2, pin stitches are extremely useful and much easier to manage.
Instead of working within the weave like on Aida, pin stitches on linen and evenweave are placed in the center hole created when stitching over two threads.
Vertical and Horizontal Pin Stitches (Over 2)
The steps for these pin stitches are very similar to Aida, but the mechanics differ slightly.
A few things to keep in mind:
These stitches aren't quite as invisible as they are on Aida
They work best in full coverage areas where they'll be covered later
For extra security, make sure your needle pierces your floss as you make the stitch
Diagonal Pin Stitch on Linen and Evenweave (Over 2)
Just like with Aida, the diagonal pin stitch is my go‑to method when stitching over 2 on linen or evenweave.
The technique is nearly the same, but one key detail matters here: make sure you pierce the floss as much as possible when securing the stitch. This helps lock everything in place and prevents slipping.
Pin Stitches Over 1 on Linen and Evenweave
Technically, pin stitches can be done over 1 on linen and evenweave, but (for me at least) this is where things get tricky.
Unlike Aida, these fabrics don’t have grouped threads. Instead, each strand is a single twisted fiber. When you place a pin stitch, you’re splitting that fiber rather than slipping between threads.
Because of this:
There’s a higher risk of damaging the fabric
The stitches are harder to place
The fibers tend to shift and resist clean placement
For these reasons, pin stitches over 1 on linen and evenweave aren’t something I personally reach for often, but that doesn't mean that can't be done!
An Alternative: The Tacking Stitch
When stitching over 1 on linen or evenweave, I often use a tacking stitch instead.
It's very important to note that tacking stitches aren’t as secure as pin stitches, but they are:
Much easier to place
Less stressful on the fabric
They’re a practical compromise and well worth having in your skill set.
Final Thoughts on Pin Stitches for Cross Stitch
Pin stitches are one of those techniques that become more valuable the more
you stitch. Whether you’re working over 1 on Aida or over 2 on linen and evenweave, having multiple options gives you flexibility and confidence.
Personally, if I can’t use a standard loop start, a starting diagonal pin stitch is almost always my next choice.
If you use pin stitches, I’d love to know:
Which type is your favorite?
Do you use different methods for different fabrics?
Is there a variation you swear by that I didn’t cover?
Happy stitching, and thanks for reading!
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